YN-560EX update: wireless compatibility

I tested the 560EX in wireless mode with my Fuji S5 and found that it works both in Group A and Group B.  I repeated the test with the D90 and it still doesn't work in group B.  It therefore appears that wireless compatibility varies by camera model.  I will check other cameras.

Update

Hi everyone. Here are some of the upcoming posts I'm working on.

1. Aputure Gigtube Wireless II. Last week I showed a photo that I took about 10 feet high from where I was standing. I was able to do that by using the Aputure Gigtube Wireless II, a wireless monitor that you can connect to some DSLRs to get remote live view and shutter capabilities. What's cool about it is it allows me to take photos from unusual angles. Almost like having the power to levitate or shrink yourself when you take photos. That's the promise it holds. But I've been doing a few tests and it's more challenging to use than I had anticipated. Some have to do with the unit, some with the camera's inherent limitations, and some are just plain photography issues. I believe the issues can be resolved but I'm still working on it. So the jury's still out on this one. I wouldn't rush out to get one just yet.

2. Yongnuo YN-560EX (EX600). I posted my initial tests last week. I'm still waiting for the flashmeter to be returned from repair but I'm suspecting it is much weaker than advertised. I also don't know if my inability to control group B with my popup is a manufacturing defect or an inherent issue with the 560EX. Will post a more comprehensive review asap.

3. Aokatec wireless TTL. Aokatec recently released a radio-based wireless TTL system that supplements your existing IR-based wireless system by detecting the electromagnetic noise from the commander flash's pulses, sending out the signal as radio, then translating it into IR for receivers. It sounds similar in principle to the Radiopopper PX. At $110 for a transmitter/receiver kit and $55 for each additional receiver, it appears to be the cheapest radio-based wireless TTL system out there. I'm very tempted to get one but am somewhat concerned about whether they can truly deliver. I've never heard of Aokatec before. Lightingrumours.com is about to review it, so I'd like to see that review before deciding whether to get one.

4. Nikkor 24-70. I have more shots now with this lens but most of my recent shots have been with APS-C cameras, which is not really the intended market for this lens. I was thinking of postponing the review until I get a full frame camera again (either a D600, D800 or D700) but I may split it into two posts - a review for APS-C and another for full frame.

5. Nikkor 28-105 3.5-4.5. I've had this lens for a while but haven't done a review of it. This may be a good alternative for someone looking for macro capabilities on a budget.

6. Nikkor 70-200 VR vs. Sigma 50-150.

7. Spyder Express monitor calibration.

8. Choosing a budget laptop for photography.

9. Review of Dodging and Burning e-book.

10. Review of Ming Thein's Photoshop Workflow tutorial.

I often change my mind as to which post to work on next and sometimes I get too busy to work on posts, so consider subscribing to our feed (such as through Google Reader) or twitter account (@betterfamilypix) to get notified of new posts.

Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Kuala Lumpur at sunset, photo taken from KL Tower (through glass) during one of the moody storms

 
This post is dedicated to Robin Wong, a Malaysian photographer whom I first knew about from Kirk Tuck's post about the BERISH 3.0 Malaysian Protests.
 
You see, I have traveled to Kuala Lumpur once and enjoyed my trip there immensely, and I really wish to go back there. I am also quite interested in Olympus M4/3 system, so when I saw Robin's blog, I enjoyed looking at his photos (especially the sharpness and the B&W treatment) and started back reading lots of his older posts that I missed, I have since been subscribed to his blog, and I enjoy reading everyone of his posts. More after the break.

GGS LCD Screen Protector III Review

After deciding that my Nikon D90 was a keeper, I ordered a GGS screen protector for it.  I've used it before and found it far clearer than the BM-8 LCD plastic cover included with most Nikon DSLRs (a few such as the D3 and D5100 don't have one).  Recently I also found out first hand about its protective capabilities.

There is now a new 3rd generation version of the GGS available for some cameras.  The biggest difference is that instead of the screen protector being affixed to your LCD screen with an adhesive, the screen protector clips on just like the BM-8.  The 3rd generation GGS is also supposed to have a film to prevent shattering, thus reducing the risk of damage to the camera in case the GGS breaks.  Another difference is that the 3rd gen GGS includes an anti-fog protective cover for the eyepiece.  Like the top LCD and main LCD covers, the viewfinder cover is also made of glass. Remarkably, the price is about the same as the classic GGS.

Both the viewfinder cover and top LCD cover attach via stickers around their edges.

With the viewfinder cover attached, I could not fit my generic rubber eyecup over the viewfinder.  However, an original Nikon DK-21 rubber eyecup can fit over the viewfinder with GGS cover.

The viewfinder looks just as clear as it does without the viewfinder cover.  I could not tell any difference.  As for its anti-fog properties, I put my camera briefly in the refrigerator and did not see any fog develop inside the cover or viewfinder.

The main LCD protector clips on the LCD just like the BM-8 plastic cover.  However, unlike the BM-8, the GGS protector includes a black frame around it that fits the camera snugly.  The fit is tight enough that I could not slide a piece of paper in between the cover and the LCD unless I used the very thin kind of thermal paper used for receipts.  Even then I could only get it through one of the corners.

On Amazon, there is a review that criticized how easily the main LCD cover falls off.  However, with my D90, the protector stays on firmly.  It's certainly not more easily detached than the BM-8 cover.

EDIT: Pls. see comment below from reader Opt.

The frame matches the camera's body pretty closely, so that it's not easy to spot it at a casual glance.

There is a small hole on the bottom left corner of the main LCD cover.  I believe it's there to prevent fog. It might allow dust to enter between the LCD cover but at least the cover is easily removable.

The new protector appears to be about as clear as the old one, although there is a very slight ghosting that I didn't see in the old protector.  This is probably due to the larger gap between the protector and the LCD.

So far, I am satisfied with the new 3rd generation GGS protector, and I would probably buy it again instead of the old protector because of the viewfinder cover.  The main LCD cover might allow dust to get in between the cover but that's outweighed by the decreased risk to the LCD because of the new film and because of the larger gap between the cover and the LCD.  In addition, if the cover is damaged, removing the cover presents absolutely no risk to the LCD.

I will update this review if I find that it's unduly susceptible to dust or being dislodged.

Yongnuo YN-560EX (EX600) Preliminary Tests

UPDATE: See the more comprehensive review here.

I just received the Yongnuo YN-560EX last night and did some tests.  FYI the YN-560EX (formerly EX600) is a manual flash with wireless TTL via Canon or Nikon's wireless flash commanders.  I was excited about this model because it's only $109.99, less than the YN-565EX (which has wireless TTL as well as on-camera TTL and costs around $160 for the Nikon version).  I believe it is currently the cheapest wireless TTL flash available.

I will post a more comprehensive review later but for now here are the results of my quick tests:

• Build quality: seems about the same as the YN-560, but the LCD screen makes it look more polished.  The buttons are also different from the YN-560 and are hard plastic instead of squishy rubber, another improvement.  The hotshoe is mostly metal (the middle is plastic - perhaps to allow the flash to break away instead of tearing out your camera's hotshoe) and has a locking pin.  Doesn't look cheap at all.
• Includes a flash stand and a nice-looking ballistic nylon case (similar to the case for an SB-900 or SB-800, though with slightly thinner padding) with a compartment for the stand.
• Recycling: very fast.  At full power, seems to recycle in about 2 seconds with eneloop NiMH batteries.  I have to test whether it's really fully recycled or it's just indicating that it has recycled when it hasn't yet.
• Power: advertised as having a guide number of 58 meters.  However when I tested it briefly against my SB-800 at 105mm zoom, the 560EX's output was noticeably lower, perhaps by as much as 1/2 stop.  My flashmeter is out for repair but it's one of the things I will test when I get my flashmeter back.
• Interface: I liked the simple interface of the YN-560.  I was wondering with the new LCD interface of the YN-560EX whether the interface would become more complicated.  I found the interface very easy to use.  The only time I needed to look at the manual was to activate advanced options (sleep settings, manual power level increments, LCD brightness, quick startup)
• Head rotates 180 degrees in both directions.
• The front of the flash, where other flashes have an AF assist indicator, has brightly flashing LED lights when the 560EX is used as a slave to indicate that the flash is ready.
• Has a 2.5mm jack instead of PC connector.  Could make it easier to connect it to accessories such as radio triggers.
• Wireless mode: just like the YN-565EX you can select either wireless Nikon slave or wireless Canon slave.  In addition, there is the usual S1 (optical slave) and S2 (optical slave with delay for TTL).

With both the Canon and the Nikon wireless modes, you can select any of 4 channels and any of 3 groups (A, B, C).

I tested the Nikon wireless slave mode with the Nikon D90's popup commander and an SB-800 as master flash.  With the popup commander I was able to control the 560EX in channel 1, group A either in manual or TTL.  I was able to adjust the power manually and was able to adjust the flash exposure compensation.  I briefly tested channels 2, 3 and 4 and they also seemed to work.  However, when the 560EX is set to Group B, it seldom worked (perhaps 1 out of 10 shots), no matter which channel I used.  What's unusual is that I can see the flash firing but the flash is not in sync with the shot.

UPDATE: With my Fuji S5, it works in both Group A and B.  Will try to test with other cameras.

Using the SB-800 as commander, I was able to control the 560EX in group A, B or C, either in manual or TTL, apparently in all channels.

Some of the other tests I'd like to run:

• TTL accuracy / similarity to SB-800
• wireless mode sensitivity compared to SB-800
• Does the wireless mode still work even when I am using other flashes in other groups?
• I will try to meetup with a friend who has a Canon to see if he can control the flash.
• testing whether the recycle at 2 secs. is really to full power.
• flashmeter measurement

If there's anything else you'd like me to test, just post it in the comments or email me at info AT betterfamilyphotos.com.

High-Key Passport Photos

My wife needed new passport photos.  It's much more convenient and economical to have passport photos taken at a store somewhere like Costco.  On the other hand, by taking the shots myself, my wife could get as many shots as she wants to her satisfaction.

I have posted about DIY Passport Photos previously.  On this occasion, instead of a quick two-light setup like I did last time, I tried a slightly more elaborate setup just for fun (and practice).

Preview of New LAX Terminal

Los Angeles International Airport is in the process of renovating its international terminal, partly to accommodate larger aircraft such as the Airbus A380.  If you'd like to get a preview of what the new terminal will look like, check out the fly-through video (warning: 230+ MB) which uses the same autoCAD files that are used for the construction.

I had a chance to join a tour of the construction site.  If you watched the fly-through video you might recognize some of the structures.

BTW for these shots I used the Nikon D90 and Tokina 11-16.

About the last shot - it was taken about 10 feet above the platform where we were standing.  There were no ladders or other surfaces to climb on.  Instead, I took it with the aid of a gadget that I will be reviewing next week.  ;)

Have a great weekend!

Choosing the Exposure for Dynamic Range

Over the weekend, we visited Knott's Berry Farm, one of the first theme parks in the U.S.  What I like about Knott's is that the lines are much shorter than those of Disneyland therefore we get to experience more rides within the same amount of time.  I also think Knott's has a more interesting variety of rides for young children like our 5-year old, and has more thrill rides (though not as many as Magic Mountain).  Although the production value is not as high as that of Disneyland, it is still quite high.

During our visit the heat was intense, reaching 95°F (35°C), just one degree below the all-time record of 96 for that area, and 10 degrees hotter than the average for this time of the year.  With the sun blazing overhead, the dynamic range was very wide.  I used two different exposure strategies to deal with the dynamic range.

Chasing Butterflies with the LX5

A couple of weeks ago, I had the opportunity to take a tour of a preserve in order to watch the El Segundo Blue Butterfly, an endangered species found only in a small area of the dunes of El Segundo, California.

The Big Picture

We recently had a birthday party for our son. It was at a playhouse with large bounce houses and a play structure, with tall black ceilings (maybe about 30 feet high or so) and multicolored walls.

What lighting technique would you use in these circumstances? Hit the jump to see what approach I used.

CowboyStudio Umbrella Stand Adapter D

I was looking for a couple more umbrella holder brackets.  There are plenty of designs out there, and I chose a kind of bracket I had not seen before but had good reviews, the CowboyStudio Umbrella Bracket "D."  Here's a quick review.

Choosing a Second Camera

If you have more than one lens and you shoot events or candid shots, I highly recommend getting a second camera. I used to have only one camera and two lenses (Tamron 17-50 VC and Sigma 50-150). I liked the Sigma 50-150, but it was too specialized, so whenever I had the choice between the 17-50 VC or the 50-150, I almost always chose the 17-50, so I got very little use out of the 50-150, even though I liked it. I finally decided to get a second camera, and it made a big difference in my photography. I used my Sigma 50-150 far more often and I got a greater variety of shots.

Buying a second camera isn't just for gearheads. I honestly believe it would be useful for the majority of family photographers. If you shoot events and candids, you probably don't have time to switch lenses (or if you do, you're probably missing some moments). Plus, if you don't have to switch lenses, you will get less dust in your sensor, and it's less likely you'll drop your lens by accident. Moreover, if anything happens to your primary camera, you will still have a backup.

A second camera doesn't have to be expensive either. You can buy a very capable Nikon D70 for $200 or less these days.

If you're looking for a second body, I recommend getting one that has different capabilities from your current camera. Here are some examples for Nikon (Canon has equivalents as well):

• Shallow depth of field and great low-light performance: any full frame DSLR.
• Good low-light performance: Nikon D5100 or Nikon D7000.
• A weaker anti-aliasing filter for greater sharpness: Nikon D800E, Nikon D300, or Nikon D300S
• Unlimited sync speed: Nikon D40, Nikon D50, Nikon D70, Nikon D70s
• Pop-up commander flash (so you can use an external flash wirelessly): Nikon D70, Nikon D70s, Nikon D80, Nikon D90, Nikon D7000, Nikon D300, Nikon D300s, Nikon D700
• Built-in focus motor (so you can use lenses that don't have focus motors): Nikon D70, Nikon D70s, Nikon D80, Nikon D90, Nikon D7000, Nikon D300, Nikon D300s, any full frame DSLR
• Tilt and swivel LCD (so you can get shots from unusual angles): Nikon D5000, Nikon D5100, Nikon D3200 (with wireless adapter)
• High dynamic range: Fuji S5 Pro, Fuji S3.
• Very high resolution: Nikon D3200, Nikon D3x, Nikon D800, D800E
• Compact body: Nikon D40, D40x, D50, D3000, D3100, D3200.
• Video (if your current camera doesn't have video): any recent DSLR.

RELATED POSTS:

Second body vs Second flash

Full frame DSLR FAQ

Canon 60D vs. 550D and 600D