Techniques, Tools, Resources, Real World Gear Reviews and Flash Tutorials for taking better candid and family photos.
Showing posts with label fotodiox. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fotodiox. Show all posts
Thursday, April 21, 2011
World's Largest On-Camera Softbox: the Fotodiox 8x12
I've been looking for a hands-free on-axis fill solution. I've tried the Coco Ring Flash, which worked pretty well and got me the results I wanted. However, I find it quite bulky and inconvenient to carry. I wondered whether a small softbox fitted to an on-camera flash would work as well. I found the Fotodiox 8x12 Softbox from Amazon and gave it a try. How well did it work? Hit the jump to find out!
Sunday, May 23, 2010
Fotodiox Generic Cokin P type Filters - Test Shots
Summer's around the corner and in anticipation of more outdoor shots, I bought filters. I'm not into landscape photography, and I don't expect to use them very often, so I couldn't justify spending a lot on them. I turned to ebay and found these filters from Fotodiox. The "Cokin P" style filter holder is made by Tian Ya. The filters have no identifying marks. I called Fotodiox to ask them if they are the same as the ones by Tian Ya. Fotodiox isn't familiar with Tian Ya, but did confirm the filters are made in China with CR-39 plastic.
Link to album with test shots
Update: real world shots with circular polarizer
Update: sample shots with graduated ND filter
Build quality
Build quality seems reasonable for the price.
The adapter (which is screwed onto the lens) is made of aluminum. The threading seems ok - I attached it to my lens (Tamron 17-50 VC) with no problems.
The filter holder is made of plastic (ABS plastic?). It looks like it will withstand normal use. It fits onto the adapter fairly well (it doesn't rattle or anything).
The filters are plastic (Fotodiox states that they are made of CR-39 plastic, the same as some of Cokin's filters). Other than the circular polarizer, they are all cut to the same rectangular dimensions: 4 inches x 3.5 inches (actually 3 15/16 x 3 6/16).
I've read a criticism posted on photo.net forums about the filters being too loose in the holder. I didn't find that to be an issue with my holder and my filter. I didn't dare shake my camera and my lens to test but I shook the filter holder with filters inserted. It seems to me that normal shaking from ordinary use will not cause noticeable movement in the filter. A vigorous movement, as though you're throwing a paper airplane, can cause the filter to move (about three such jerks would be sufficient to dislodge a filter). Jerking the filter holder extremely hard like your life depended on it can dislodge the filter in one jerk.
Update: because the filters are rectangular and are larger than the filter holder itself, the filters can get pushed accidentally in crowded areas.
Vignetting
Although the P series is advertised for a 35mm focal length equivalent of 28mm or longer, I can use it on the Tamron 17-50 with no apparent vignetting even at 17mm (25.5mm equivalent) except when the holder is tilted at a diagonal. When the filter holder is at a diagonal, vignetting is visible until about 25mm (37.5 mm equivalent) when it becomes very slight.
Baseline shot at 17mm (no filter holder):
Test shot at 17mm (filter holder attached, level):

Test shot at 17mm (filter holder attached, tilted):
Test shot at 25mm (filter holder attached, tilted):

Accuracy of Exposure Reduction from Neutral Density filters.
I also wanted to know if the neutral density filters reduced exposure to the indicated extent. I took test shots of our white garage door in manual mode, JPEG, picture control: neutral (default settings), white balance: custom. Briefly, the ND2 and ND4 are reasonably accurate. The ND8 acts almost like an ND32 (4.6 stops reduction).
Baseline shot (no filter) at ISO 200:

Test shot with ND2 (1 stop reduction) at ISO 400:
Test shot with ND4 (2 stop reduction) at ISO 800:
Test shot with ND8 (3 stop reduction) at ISO 1600:
Test shot with ND8 (3 stop reduction) at ISO 5000 (2/3 stop more than 3200):

Test shot with ND4 and ND2 stacked, at ISO 1600:

Comparison of ND8 (top) with stacked ND4 and ND2 (bottom):
Circular polarizer's effectiveness at filtering polarized light.
To test the circular polarizer's effectiveness, I took test shots through polarized sunglasses and tested how opaque the sunglasses became. I found that at the peak of the polarized light filtration, the CPL blocked about 7 stops of polarized light.
CPL test shot through polarized sunglasses - minimum filtration, ISO 200, f/4.5, 1/250:

CPL test shot through polarized sunglasses - maximum filtration, ISO 200, f/4.5, 1/250:

CPL test shot through polarized sunglasses - maximum filtration, ISO 6400, f/3.2, 1/60:

Color cast:
ND2: no color cast found based on histogram:

ND4: no color cast found based on histogram:
Stacked ND2 and ND4: noticeable reddish color cast:
"ND8" (~ND16): noticeable reddish color cast:

Graduated ND: noticeable brownish color cast:

Circular polarizer: noticeable brownish color cast:
Link to album with test shots
Update: real world shots with circular polarizer
Update: sample shots with graduated ND filter
Build quality
Build quality seems reasonable for the price.
The adapter (which is screwed onto the lens) is made of aluminum. The threading seems ok - I attached it to my lens (Tamron 17-50 VC) with no problems.
The filter holder is made of plastic (ABS plastic?). It looks like it will withstand normal use. It fits onto the adapter fairly well (it doesn't rattle or anything).
The filters are plastic (Fotodiox states that they are made of CR-39 plastic, the same as some of Cokin's filters). Other than the circular polarizer, they are all cut to the same rectangular dimensions: 4 inches x 3.5 inches (actually 3 15/16 x 3 6/16).
I've read a criticism posted on photo.net forums about the filters being too loose in the holder. I didn't find that to be an issue with my holder and my filter. I didn't dare shake my camera and my lens to test but I shook the filter holder with filters inserted. It seems to me that normal shaking from ordinary use will not cause noticeable movement in the filter. A vigorous movement, as though you're throwing a paper airplane, can cause the filter to move (about three such jerks would be sufficient to dislodge a filter). Jerking the filter holder extremely hard like your life depended on it can dislodge the filter in one jerk.
Update: because the filters are rectangular and are larger than the filter holder itself, the filters can get pushed accidentally in crowded areas.
Vignetting
Although the P series is advertised for a 35mm focal length equivalent of 28mm or longer, I can use it on the Tamron 17-50 with no apparent vignetting even at 17mm (25.5mm equivalent) except when the holder is tilted at a diagonal. When the filter holder is at a diagonal, vignetting is visible until about 25mm (37.5 mm equivalent) when it becomes very slight.
Baseline shot at 17mm (no filter holder):
Test shot at 17mm (filter holder attached, level):
Test shot at 17mm (filter holder attached, tilted):
Test shot at 25mm (filter holder attached, tilted):
Accuracy of Exposure Reduction from Neutral Density filters.
I also wanted to know if the neutral density filters reduced exposure to the indicated extent. I took test shots of our white garage door in manual mode, JPEG, picture control: neutral (default settings), white balance: custom. Briefly, the ND2 and ND4 are reasonably accurate. The ND8 acts almost like an ND32 (4.6 stops reduction).
Baseline shot (no filter) at ISO 200:
Test shot with ND2 (1 stop reduction) at ISO 400:
Test shot with ND4 (2 stop reduction) at ISO 800:
Test shot with ND8 (3 stop reduction) at ISO 1600:
Test shot with ND8 (3 stop reduction) at ISO 5000 (2/3 stop more than 3200):
Test shot with ND4 and ND2 stacked, at ISO 1600:
Comparison of ND8 (top) with stacked ND4 and ND2 (bottom):
Circular polarizer's effectiveness at filtering polarized light.
To test the circular polarizer's effectiveness, I took test shots through polarized sunglasses and tested how opaque the sunglasses became. I found that at the peak of the polarized light filtration, the CPL blocked about 7 stops of polarized light.
CPL test shot through polarized sunglasses - minimum filtration, ISO 200, f/4.5, 1/250:
CPL test shot through polarized sunglasses - maximum filtration, ISO 200, f/4.5, 1/250:
CPL test shot through polarized sunglasses - maximum filtration, ISO 6400, f/3.2, 1/60:
Color cast:
ND2: no color cast found based on histogram:
ND4: no color cast found based on histogram:
Stacked ND2 and ND4: noticeable reddish color cast:
"ND8" (~ND16): noticeable reddish color cast:
Graduated ND: noticeable brownish color cast:
Circular polarizer: noticeable brownish color cast:
Labels:
circular,
cokin,
color cast,
cpl,
filter,
fotodiox,
nd,
neutral density,
polarizer
Saturday, May 15, 2010
One Filter Ring to Rule Them All
Benefits of Filters
Filters are attached to lenses to achieve effects such as changing color cast, etc. Thanks to digital imaging, many filters can now be simulated in postprocessing (Photoshop, Paint Shop, etc.). However, filters are still relevant. Some people use UV filters to shield their lenses from physical damage after all. :) Seriously, there are some filter effects that are still difficult or impossible to replicate in postprocessing:
1. circular polarizer: cuts reflection and glare. The blue of the sky can be made to look deeper blue. You may be able to avoid some reflections in glass, depending on the angle of the glass relative to the camera (think of all the bus tour photos you can take! :) ). You may have seen those postcards with tantalizingly clear waters for snorkeling. Part of that clarity is from blocking reflections.
2. neutral density filter: reduces the exposure value. You've seen those waterfall shots with flowing water. You're savvy enough to know those were done with long exposures. What you might not have known (unless you've tried it) is that those long exposures are sometimes impossible without a neutral density filter, especially for newer DSLRs with a base ISO of 200. In addition, an ND filter can also be used to get a wide aperture (for shallow depth of field) in bright conditions, and can give your flash a higher output than an equivalent exposure at a higher shutter speed that requires high speed sync.
3. graduated neutral density filter: reduces the exposure value for part of the scene. This is one way to expand the dynamic range of your image. You can adjust the graduation to cover just the brighter parts of the scene you're capturing (e.g. clouds, windows).
4. split field - increases the depth of field.
5. infrared: blocks visible light, allows photography of infrared wavelength. Infrared is a photographic genre in itself. Sorry I don't have samples. But here are links.
In short, filters are useful when taking shots outdoors.
Cokin filter holder system
Are you getting ready to buy filters? Well, don't get one just yet. The typical round screw-in filter is screwed onto the lens. Each of your lenses has a certain filter size, such as 67mm, 72mm, 77mm, etc. You buy filters for each filter size you have. Although filters can be stacked one on top of the other, the filter rings of the stacked filters become cumulatively thick enough that they can cause vignetting.
Unlike typical filters, the Cokin system uses a filter holder and square or rectangular filters instead. An adapter is screwed onto your lens, then the filter holder is in turn attached to the adapter. Filters are then slid into the filter holder.
Advantages of the Cokin system:
1. Adjustable positioning. Cokin filter holders can be freely rotated and the filters can be moved up or down. This makes the filters usable even if the lens rotates during focus. For graduated filters, this allows precise control of where the graduation begins. For vignette or selective focus type filters, this allows the precise positioning of the vignette or area of selective focus.
2. Speed - it's faster to slide filters on and off a Cokin filter holder than screwing filters on and off lenses.
3. Filters can be shared between lenses. Just buy a filter holder and adapter ring for each lens, or just adapter rings. Filters of the same series can be shared between lenses.
4. Stackable - a Cokin holder can hold up to 3 filters (1 of which can be a rotatable filter) at the same time. Cokin holders can also be paired together to allow stacking of up to 6 filters, though vignetting can become an issue for anything less than a telephoto lens.
5. Less susceptible to vignetting - because the filter holder is generally much wider than the lens, there is less chance for vignetting. Cokin recommends these filter holders for these focal lengths:
A series: lens up to 62mm filter size, for 35mm focal length equivalent of 35mm or longer.
P series: lens up to 82mm filter size, for 35mm focal length equivalent of 28mm or longer.
P series wide angle (BPW700): offers 20% more angle of vision, for 35mm focal length equivalent of 20mm or longer. Uses same filters as P series, but accommodates only 1 filter at a time.
Z series: lens up to 96mm filter size, for 35mm focal length equivalent of 20mm or longer.
X series: lens up to 118mm filter size, for 35mm focal length equivalent of 15mm or longer.
6. Handholdable. It is possible to do without a holder and simply handhold filters in front of the lenses. This can help further avoid vignetting.
7. Cost - Cokin type filters usually cost less than equivalent round screw-in filters of similar quality because of economies of scale and because the Cokin filters are simpler to manufacture.
8. Less likely to damage your lens. High quality round screw-in filters are often made of glass. The problem is that if the glass is shattered, the fragments can damage your lens. Cokin filters (and some clones) are made of CR-39 optical plastic, which I'm supposing is less likely to shatter and I'm also supposing shattered CR-39 fragments, being less dense than glass, are less likely to scratch your lens.
Disadvantages:
1. Size. It adds to the bulkiness of your lens.
2. You can't use your lens cap. You can, however, buy a lens cap specifically for a Cokin holder. The lens cap doesn't cover the lens completely, and it may allow dust to reach the lens, but at least your lens will be protected from bumps.
3. You can't use your lens hood. You can, however, buy a lens hood specifically for a Cokin holder. The Cokin lens hood isn't a perfect design because it is uniform in thickness (not petal shaped), so there's a high possibility of vignetting for wide angle lenses.
Cokin isn't the only filter holder maker. Lee and Singh-Ray also produce filter holder systems but their filters are more expensive than Cokin.
Cost:
So how much damage will this do to your budget? The Z and X series are expensive but the A and P series are affordable. An original Cokin P series holder with an adapter costs less than $20
- Cokin P holder clone (Tian Ya brand) with aluminum 72mm adapter
- circular polarizer
- ND8 (3 stop reduction)
- ND4 (2 stop reduction)
- graduated ND
- a case for each filter
- lens cap
I chose Fotodiox because other Cokin clones are made of unspecified plastic, whereas Fotodiox's are specifically made of CR-39 plastic (same material as some eyeglasses), just like some of Cokin's filters. In addition, Fotodiox ships from USA, so it allows instant gratification :D (I had to wait for my D300 remote from Hong Kong for 3 weeks...)
Fotodiox also sells the ND filters as a set (ND2, ND4, ND8). If you ask them, they can substitute the ND2 for a graduated ND, which is what I requested.
Fotodiox has spectacular customer service. They sent me the ND2 instead of the graduated ND by mistake but when I followed up, they offered to send the graduated ND without the need to return the ND2. My ND4 and ND8 were also chipped, and they sent replacements without questions.
(Note: I'm not affiliated with Fotodiox.)
I will update this post with "real world" shots using these filters.
Update: Here are test shots of the Fotodiox generic filters.
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