Sunday, September 19, 2010

Meike MK-RC7 Wireless Flash Trigger Review

Update 6/18/11: resolved problem with remote shutter function.
Update 6/8/11: identified problem with remote shutter function -- see below.
Update 5/13/11: Tried using the MK-RC7 to trigger an Alien Bee B1600. It worked 100%.

The Meike MK-RC7 is an inexpensive radio trigger that works both as a flash trigger or a remote shutter release.  It shares many similarities in function and appearance with the Yongnuo RF-602, which has been out for almost a year now (differences are marked with an asterisk):

- 2.4 GHz.  Theoretically less prone to interference.
- Receiver unit can trigger either a flash or a camera's shutter release.
- 16 channels.  *Unlike the RF-602, if the RC7 transmitter is switched to channel 1111, it will trigger all channels.  I personally would prefer not to have this 'feature'.  If someone within the range of the RC7 (100m claimed) uses this channel, your flash will be triggered and there's nothing you can do to stop it.
- *The RC7 transmitter and receiver are both powered by AAA batteries, making it easier to find replacements in the field.
- *The RC7 transmitter includes a locking pin.  To lift the pin, you push a button on the back of the transmitter.
- *When functioning as a shutter release, the RC7 has a bulb mode and a delay mode.

I bought one transmitter, and two receivers, and here's a quick review.  Disclaimer: I'm not an experienced strobist.  My review is based on my experience with other a Cactus V2s triggers and a couple of wireless shutter releases.

1. Transmitter (marked "TX").  The transmitter has no on/off switch.  For the shutter release function, the transmitter has a shutter release button that can be half pressed, as well as a switch for either a) standard/bulb/continuous shooting or b) delay mode.  There is a 2-stage LED light, which lights up green when the shutter is half pressed, then lights red when the shutter is fully depressed.  There are 4 switches to choose from among the 16 channels. There is a PC sync port.  The hotshoe is made of metal and looks like it has 8 pins in addition to the two lock pins (presumably so it can work with multiple camera brands).  There are two lock pins, which can be lifted when a button behind the hotshoe is pressed.

2. Receiver (marked "RX").  The receiver has a power switch.  It must be held down for about 3 seconds in order to turn the unit on, though can be turned off with a simple button press.  The receiver has a shutter that can be half-pressed just like the transmitter.  As with the transmitter, there are 4 switches to choose from among the 16 channels. The hotshoe has 6 contacts (3 large and 3 small), and two holes for locking pins.  There is a plastic cold shoe with a hole for a 1/4-20 tripod mount.  At the top are two LEDs.  The one on the right indicates whether power is turned on.  The one on the left is a 2-stage LED that indicates whether the receiver is receiving a signal (green then red, just like the transmitter's 2-stage LED).  The receiver has a 3-pin port that looks proprietary.

3. Cable from receiver to camera (to allow the shutter release function).  One end has the 3-hole proprietary connection for the receiver.  The other end is specific to your camera make and model.

4. PC sync cable (push-in type).

5. Cable from proprietary port to phone plug.

6. Adapter from phone plug to miniplug.

I ordered another receiver and they provided an extra set of the phone plug cord and miniplug adapter (but not an extra shutter cable).

My initial impression of the build quality was positive.  I had Cactus V2s trigger, and the build quality on this one appears to be a notch above that.  It's not perfect though.  For example, I found the battery cover on one of the receivers to be unusually hard to close.  So much so that I'm concerned that the small clip that keeps the lid closed might break off in the future.

I tested the following functions:
  • Reliability as a wired cable release.
  • Reliability as a wireless remote shutter.
  • Reliability for triggering a single flash.
  • Maximum sync speed.
  • Wake-up function.
  • Reliability for triggering two flashes. 
1. Reliability as a cable release.
An RC7 receiver can be attached to a camera to act as a cable shutter release.  Specific cables must be ordered depending on your camera make and model.  The receiver has a shutter release button that can be half-pressed and fully pressed, just like a camera shutter.  This function works even with the receiver turned off or batteries are removed.

I tested this function and did not observe any problems.  Works as advertised.
  • If the RC7 shutter is half-pressed, it will function in the same way as the camera's shutter button being half-pressed.  Fully pressing the RC7 works the same way as fully pressing the camera shutter.
  • If the camera is in continuous shutter mode and the RC7 shutter is held down, the camera will fire continuously.
  • If the camera is in bulb mode, and the RC7 shutter is held down, the camera will fire in bulb mode and keep the shutter open for as long as the RC7 button is held down.
2. Reliability as a wireless remote shutter.
This is similar to the functionality of a cable release except that the shutter is triggered wirelessly.  The receiver has to be turned on of course.  This function works as advertised almost all of the time, but I wouldn't say 100%.  Differences from the cable release mode:
  • If the camera is in bulb mode, and the receiver is also in bulb mode, the shutter will remain open for as long as the RC7 transmitter shutter is held down, except that if the RC7 shutter is held down for about 3 seconds before release, then the shutter will remain open until the RC7 shutter is again fully depressed and released
  • Out of several trials, I observed one error in the bulb mode.  I held the RC7 shutter down, which kept the shutter up, and when I pressed the button again to close the shutter, the receiver didn't respond.  When I immediately pressed it again, the receiver worked as normal.

3. Reliability for triggering a single flash.
An RC7 transmitter can be attached to the camera either via the hotshoe, or attached to a camera or flash via a PC sync cord.  In the latter case, my camera's PC sync is disabled when I raise the popup flash.  Also, when the SB-800 is functioning as a CLS slave, the PC sync is also disabled.  The PC sync does work when attached to the SB-800, and the SB-800 is functioning as on-camera flash, CLS master, or SU-4 remote.

An RC7 receiver can be attached to a flash in at least a couple of ways: either through the flash's hotshoe or through the supplied cable for a phone plug or miniplug (like that on a Lumopro LP120 or LP160). I don't have any flash or strobe with a plug like that so I couldn't test that.
  • I tested the RC7 with a Nikon SB-800 and a Yongnuo YN-560.  The RC7 worked fine with both units at ordinary shooting distances.  I did not observe any missed syncs (i.e., each time I fired, the flash sync'd).  I did not test range.  I did test through a glass door and the flash still fired.
  • When a receiver is attached to a YN-560, the YN-560 blocks the receiver's power button (this is also an issue with the Yongnuo RF-602). An SB-800 does not block the power button.
  • When a receiver is triggered, the left LED stays green for several seconds as a visual indicator that the flash was successfully triggered.
4. Maximum sync speed
The highest sync speed I was able to use was 1/250 (transmitter mounted to camera's hotshoe; flash connected to receiver via hotshoe).  The camera allowed me to choose a higher sync speed but at 1/320 the rear curtain was visible in the top fifth or so of the image.

When the transmitter is attached to an SB-800 via PC sync, the highest sync speed I got was 1/200.

5. Wake-up function.
Some flashes go into standby after a period of inactivity.  The RC7 is supposed to be able to 'wake up' the standby flash and I tested this function.  On an SB-800, the receiver was able to wake up the SB-800 which had gone to standby, albeit after one missed shot.  Alternatively, I was able to wake up the SB-800 by pressing the shutter release on the transmitter.

6. Reliability for triggering two flashes.
In this setup, the transmitter was on the camera's hotshoe.  The receivers were attached to an SB-800 (in manual mode) and a YN-560.  When I first got the units, using this setup, I had missed syncs on perhaps a third or so of trials, which gave me a bad impression of the product.  However, I've been testing it now and have found it to be more reliable, with a failure rate of 1/30 for each receiver (a success rate of about 96.67%), i.e., the probability of both receivers working is around 93.44%).  Assuming other receivers have the same failure rate as my samples, then the probability of success for all receivers are:
  • 1 receiver: 96.67%
  • 2 receivers: 93.44%
  • 3 receivers: 90.33%
  • 4 receivers: 87.32%
  • 5 receivers: 84.41%
The flash was triggered without input on a few occasions.

As I continue using these triggers, I will post an update from time to time.  As long as you don't see anything here, you can assume they're working :)

6/8/11 update:  The flash triggering has been working consistently for triggering both speedlights and an Alien Bee monolight.  On the other hand, I had been having problems using the remote shutter function of the MK-RC7.  When I half-press the transmitter, the camera would focus but when I press the transmitter button all the way, the shutter doesn't release even though the LED on the receiver confirmed that it was receiving the signal.

With some testing, I found out that the problem was with the remote shutter cable.  If the cable is bent a certain way, the shutter does release and works normally.  I've ordered a new cable.

If you are having a problem with the remote shutter function and want to see if the cable is the problem, here's how to test it: connect the receiver to your camera and turn them both on.  Set the transmitter to the bulb/continuous shutter mode, then hold down the transmitter button for a few seconds.  Both LEDs on the receiver should light up red and stay lit.  Switch the camera to continuous shutter mode.  Then move the cable around various positions.  You may find that at certain cable positions, the shutter will be released.  (In my case I found that if the cable was bent almost 180 degrees near the receiver's port, the shutter would fire normally.)  When you're ready to cease testing, press the transmitter button again to deactivate the continuous shutter.

6/18/11 update: I received the new remote shutter cable and I tried it out.  The remote shutter worked as normal again.


  1. Thanks Mic for the nice review
    What made you choose this trigger versus a RF602?

  2. I was looking mainly for a remote shutter for my cam. My previous one died when I tried to replace the battery. The fact that the battery on this one is aaa made me think it's less likely to die like my previous remote. :)

  3. Are these compatible with the RF-602? The recievers are slightly cheaper than the RF-602 recievers. (They pop up on ebay as RF-602 LIKE right before the actual 602 recievers if you're sorting by price)

  4. Hi Mark. That's an interesting question. I don't have rf602s for testing though. I'll ask around my local photo club if anyone does so we can try it out.

  5. Just a few days later than you, I bought exactly the same.
    I tested the range with batteries of 75% energy. It's more than ~105m far. That is enough.
    So I tested it about 1 week over. Sadly, it has some fault. The channel-switch top part is break on the transmitter, and came out from the housing. I did not wonder, it is cheap. I will fixing it with a little glue, or soldering a new switch onto the PCB .

    And thanks for the review.

  6. Hi gemol. Thanks for sharing your results with the distance. Hopefully the channel switch can be fixed.

    Best regards,

  7. Hi Mic,
    I've been reading up your review and liked the RC-7 so I got a few pairs.

    My setup: YN-460 II's, D90

    What's troubling is that I can get either strobes or the camera triggered fine, but not at the same time.
    The flashes fire fine and sync up to 1/250 (transmitter, TX in the hotshoe, flashes on RX-receivers).
    RX connected to the remote port on D90 shoots fine also.

    Using an infrared remote is ok too, sync stays the same.

    But using RC-7 as a flash TX in the hotshoe and and RX in the camera remote port results in both camera and the flashes firing but out of sync totally.

    I can only see the flash on 1/2 or longer exposition.

    It should not be interference as as flashes are on one channel and the cam trigger on another.

    It makes no sense.

    I switched TX's around....or have I (*runs* to test)...and half an hour later:

    It seems that if I'm close to the camera, I get out of sync flashes when remote triggered, but as soon as I put some distance between me and the cam, it shoots in sync.

    Could be cam TX interfering with the flash TX.
    The cam TX channel: 1000
    The flash TX channel: 1110

    How close are these channels?

    What channels are you using?
    I'll do some more testing tomorrow and post the results.

  8. Hi kosmarnik. Thanks for posting your test results. If you want to do a guest post of an article about your further tests, pls. let me know - I'm happy to oblige.

    Regarding your question, I want to make sure I understand. You want to trigger the D90 remotely while also triggering YN-460 remotely, and you want it all to be in sync. Is that right? Also you are using two transmitters - one to trigger the D90 and another triggered by the D90 to trigger the flash? If so, I have a suggestion: how about using one transmitter for the d90 and your flashes? I think a single TX in your hand can be used to trigger the d90 (with rx attached), and the flashes (also with rx attached). I might try that later to test if it will sync.

    My other suggestion is to try channel 1111 (which will trigger all other channels).

    I think interference is possible - I seem to get a higher success rate when I trigger only one device than multiple devices.

  9. Hi kosmarnik. I tried both of my suggestions and neither worked. The flash was being triggered even before the mirror was raised (I could see the flash in the viewfinder).

  10. Hi Mic,
    I have kinda numerical tests :)
    location distance shutter succes rate
    room 30cm 1/200 0/5
    room 5m 1/200 0/5
    kitchen 5m 1/200 4/5
    kitchen 30cm 1/200 2/5
    kitchen 2m 1/200 0/5
    kitchen 5m 1/200 5/5

    Seems interference all right :(
    I'm guessing the two TX's are interfering when they're close.

    Also, seems as though the MK-RC7 is wifi sensitive. I'm getting worse results in the room where I have lots of wifi APs and clients.

    So to recap: one RX is connected to the remote/gpd port of the D90, one TX is in the hotshoe, both on separate channels.

    I use one TX to trigger the cam, and that's the way it should be as the cam has to fire the flashes through the hotshoe. To the camera it should look as I was there pressing the button, camera has no knowledge of a radio remote.

    That leaves only MK-RC7 interfering. Meh.

    I guess a good choice of channels would help here, but I have no idea what is the channel separation on it, or what dip switch combination's give which frequencies.

    I'll send and e-mail to Meiko to see if I can get some info, but judging from the manual, it'll be hard to get a reply in English :|

  11. This is great info! Thanks for the posting the results of your tests kosmarnik! I would suppose that the channels are arranged by frequency, so that the greatest separation is between channel 0000 and 1110 (can't use 1111). However, I'm just speculating. Thanks again!

  12. My Meike MK-RC7 isn't working and I just bought it. Could someone please let me now how to fix this. The batteries are new, the transmitter's and receiver's lights come on, but I can't get them to "acknowledge" each other, and the receiver's green light doesn't come on. Any help you could give would be most appreciated.

  13. Hi. Pls email me and I'll do my best to diagnose the issue.

  14. Hi all here! I found this discussion, because I got my ordered set of 1 pc tx and 3 pcs rx and I can´t put it into operation... :-(
    My cameras are Canon 5D II and 7D with Canon 580 and 430 EX speedlites. No one of rx can fire flash via tx. Only singly manual when I press the trigger button. All switches are in 0110 position according to manual.
    No one light of 2 (on all 3 rx) is shining (no communication between tx and rx?).
    I tested indoors and outdoors as well, in different distances, in different switch positions.
    I don´t know what I make wrong, because I can´t believe, that all 3 rx are faulty.
    Have someone a tip which can help me?
    Thanks for your consult! And sorry for my poor english.
    Best regards!
    Yaro, Czech Republic

  15. Hi Yaro. Pls email me a picture of your setup. Maybe I can help you solve the problem.

    Best regards,

  16. Well, I got mine (1 Tx, 1 Rx) they worked fine when I got them. Tested both flash trigger and camera remote functions, worked great. 2 days later, today, nothing works. Receiver seems to malfunction. It flashes green at half press, then a full press, led changes to red, but flash doesn't flash. Tries as a remote, the instant I connect the C3 connector to the camera (Canon 1D MK IV) the shutter trips. Then nothing, button does nothing. If I disconnect cable from trigger and reconnect: shutter trips. Bad receiver!
    Have you read or experienced any troubleshooting info?

    Danny in Montreal

  17. Hi Danny. Sorry to hear about your remote's problems. I don't know of troubleshooting resources for this unit.

    The one tine I had a problem with this unit is when the channel was accidentally changed, which was easily corrected.

    On other flash triggers by another manufacturer (cactus), I had one unit that also lost the ability to trigger a flash and that unit was replaced by the seller...

    Other than that have you tried turning off the camera before connecting or disconnecting the receiver? Maybe it's shorting?

    Best regards,

  18. Thanks Mic,
    I'm waiting on a return number from LinkDelight. I'm going to have it replaced.

  19. Just got a set - work fine with my 580ex, but won't trigger my YN 460 under any circumstances (even when manually triggering the receiver). Anyone know of an incompatibiity there?


  20. Hi botw. I haven't heard of an incompatibility with the YN460. Hmm the optimist in me thinks that there's a simple fix...

    Best regards,

  21. LinkDelight contacted me, they're sending me a new set. I've read on a forum that they have revised the RX unit due to triggering problems (voltage issues) with certain flashes. Seems there have been numerous people reporting triggering problems lately.

    In Montreal

  22. Glad to know you're getting a new set, Danny! Good thing LinkDelight stepped up.

    Best regards,

  23. Hi Mic Ty...
    I also bought RC7 wireless triggers...
    One set. Came in today
    But I have a question. Everything works fine with my canon 50d but one thing,
    when I put shutter delay 10 sec it doesn't fire unless i press the button on transmitter 3 sec before firing. its like receiver is sleeping and needs wake up just before firing. Same thing happens when firing first photo, nothing happens until I fire second one. So, it sleeps on first, it wakes up on second and after that it woks fine. That is not a big problem, its cheap and I can't ask for more, but is that only my problem, can it be solved or its just like that. Is it maybe because there is WiFi on my comp interrupting?
    Thank you very much for your answer.

  24. Hi Anri. If I understand correctly, you set the 10-sec shutter delay on your camera body?

    The RC7 transmitter has a switch. The first one is normal/bulb/continuous. The second one is for a 2-second delay. In your case, the RC7 transmitter should be switched to the normal/bulb/continuous. Otherwise, if it is on the 2 second delay, then there will be a delay just like you observed. I hope that solves your issue...

    Best regards,

  25. Hi again,
    well you see, transmitter is set to normal/bulb/continuous, shutter on camera is set to 10sec delay. enough time to set myself in front of the camera. on first attempt nothing happens, on second attempt I pressed the button on transmitter halfway down just 3 sec before firing the shutter and than it fired the flash! Its like they are not connected until you press the button on transmitter before firing or take another shot. You actually have to wake up the receiver. Even if you try to fire the flash with pressing the button on transmitter it fires on the second press.
    Its not a big problem, I can live with it, but if you or anyone else have the same problem and solve it, i would like the know the solution.
    Thank you again, and best regards,
    Anri, Croatia

  26. Hi Anri. Thanks for explaining your issue further. On my camera (D300) I don't experience such an issue. Does this happen only when the camera is on 10 second timer and being triggered by the RC7? Or does it happen with the RC7 even if the camera is not on 10 second timer? If it happens regardless of whether the body is on 10 second timer, then the issue is with the RC7 and perhaps you might want to try replacing the battery. The RC7 might be going to "sleep" because its battery is low. Especially if you're using the battery that it came with from the seller. That's my best guess...

    Best regards,

  27. Hello for the 3rd time.
    Just to inform you, or anybody else with same problem, i have found what was causing my problem. It was the connection between camera and transmitter. How? Those pins that you have on transmitter don't fit well on my camera if pushed all the way in. Today I found out that if I don't push it all the way in, I get green light on transmitter somewhere on the "sweet spot", just a tiny bit before lock, and if I press the camera shutter half way down I get green light on receiver, which means its "online". I didn't have that before. so, all of you with same problem, don't push it to the lock, bring it back just a tiny bit till you get the green light on transmitter.
    Anyway, hope this will help in future to anyone.
    Best regards to all, specially to you Mic Ty, sorry for spamming your blog.

  28. Hi Anri. We are the ones who should be thanking you for generously sharing your knowledge with the readers of this blog and other rc7 users. Many thanks and more power to you.

    Best regards,

  29. can't be a wired cable release at my d3100..why??it can only auto focusing but not taking a picture..please reply..

  30. Hello Mic Ty,
    i got problem with my RX,it cant's used as wired remote shutter..i have test it..but it only can autofocus but not take a picture..i have the manual..the battery are gear are nikon d3100..please reply

  31. Hi Nawi. There are different versions of the RC7's cable for different cameras. Did you buy one that says that it is for the D3100? If so, and it's not triggering the shutter, then I think you may want to ask the seller for a refund or exchange.

    Best regards,

  32. Hi again

    yeah.. i have buy the cable..i have test it on d90 but at my d3100 say its compatible with my camera model,d3100

  33. It works on the d90 but not the d3100? Hmm I don't know the answer to this one. I suggest you ask the seller. They probably have much more knowledgr and experience about the rc7 than me...

  34. Mic,
    Anri talked about a similar problem to what I'm having with my new RX and TX. When I press the shutter for the first photo, nothing is sent to the RX, so the off camera flash doesn't fire. If i press for a second time right after, it fires. When the camera is left alone for 20-30 secs or so, same problem repeats itself. I mostly use the RC-7s for product shots, so for every shot i make it requires 2 shutter release! I've also heard from somebody having the same problem with a Canon 550d.
    Something tells me there's a "sleep" problem with the RX or TX.


  35. Hi Danny. Did Anri's solution work for you (moving the tx slightly)? See his 3rd comment. Pls post either way for everyone's benefit. thanks!

    Best regards,

  36. Mic,
    I've tried everything in the last 3 weeks. TX on the hotshoe, connected to the camera's PC terminal, adding tape to the TX hotshoe connector for a tigher fit, all the way in, slightly pulled out, ...
    I'm on the verge of selling them locally and buying Radio Poppers.


  37. Hi Danny. I'm sorry to hear that about your experience particularly because you use it for paid shoots.

    I've heard good things about radio poppers but havent tested them. I hope they dont have the sleep issue when used with your camera.

    This is just a suggestion but i think the rc7 doesnt have a lot of resale value so you might want to hold on to them while testing the radio poppers. That way if
    the radio poppers are less than satisfactory you can return them and save some money with the rc7.

    Best regards,

  38. Hi Mic..
    My setup: d90,yn460ii,evo460,evo670e,sb800

    I found problem in my new meike Rc7: can't trigger my yn460ii&evo460e. both flash have a single pin contact,but my rc7 only work with flash that have many contact pin like sb800&evo670e(ttl flash). d90 has no respon after metering sleep on while rc7 attach to i have to turn off camera then turn on again. Does rc7 uncompatible with sleep metering mode of d90?

    hary sp

  39. HI hary sp. Sorry to hear about your issues with the rc7.

    I was able to trigger the yn560 (manual flash) so i think there is something else causing the problem. Could be flimsy soldering inside.

    Regarding your sleep mode question, I will do some tests on my camera.

    Best regards,

  40. Dear Mic,

    I've tried rc7 to yn560 and rc7 still could not trigger the yn560. I have try it at camera store& found rc7 could not trigger all kind of flash with 1 contact pin although we use other new rc7.
    is there other solution? thx

    Hary sp

  41. Hm thats weird. I recall being able to trigger my yn560 with the rc7. Unfortunately i have no more manual flashes. Anyone got suggestions for hary sp pls chime in!

    Best regards,

  42. I found new series of meike rc7 only trigger flash with 5 pin contact. Older series of Meike Rc7 can trigger manual Flash. The store has been report it to the distributor.

    Hary Sp

  43. Wow that is very useful info. I know many people who buy radio triggers use manual flash so I think that is a serious omission by meike. Thanks Hary Sp!!

    Best regards,

  44. My setup is Canon 50D, speedlite 580 ex and other flashes.

    Well, I bought 3 transmitters and 5 receivers. I tested them using the trigger button on the transmitter. Everything worked fine.

    I didn't use them for a couple of months. When I did I had problems.

    I traced the problem down to the receivers "going to sleep". The flash would not fire for the first but would for the second shot if it was within 2 seconds.

    You can get the flash to fire the first time by pressing the trigger button on the transmitter.

    Waited to long to return :-(

  45. Hi. I'm sorry to hear your set has a problem. It sounds something like Anri and Danny's problem. Does it happen to all the receivers? One suggestion: since you already invested a lot into the system you may want to check if it's the cable -- maybe try ordering one new cable to see if it's more reliable.

    Best regards,

  46. The MK-RC7 is not compatible with the YN560, but I was able to get it to work with the MK930. Out of two receivers, one worked as expected. The other fired only if within 12 inches of the transmitter.

  47. Looks like a polaroid version of this unit is available now and it claims it works with TTL. Anyone tried using the Canon TTL on multiple flashes?

    Trying to find a TTL wireless unit for Canon that doesn't ruin your flash like PW.


  48. Lee I think you're right that the MK-RC7 won't work with the YN-560 (assuming you mean the new version of the MK-RC7). See also what Hary Sp posted re 5-pin contact.

    @kmggdc I'm not familiar with the polaroid wireless trigger but if it works with TTL I strongly doubt it is similar to or compatible with the MK-RC7 which is manual only. BTW have you tried Radiopopper? (Not cheap but works well with Canon.)

    Best regards,

  49. Mic Ty
    I have looked at Radio Poppers, but still need ST-2 and then the Poppers... gets real expensive fast. Fearful of PW and don't like the limitations their "fix" presents.
    So that leaves me patiently waiting for an alternative. Looks like Phottix and Pixel King are both on the verge of releasing something that supports TTL.
    I ordered the Polaroid that make the claim; but I am skeptical. If nothing else I'll have a remote trigger. We'll see; Amazon has a great return policy so if they don't live up to their claim its just a matter of a few shipping dollars.

    Thanks for you comments. If anyone has found or tried the polariod units it would be nice to hear about them.

  50. Hi kmggdc. The thing about these cheaper units is that in my experience they don't last very long and I usually end up buying another one in a year or two. So it's cheaper in the short run but not in the long run. It's possible that there are reliable and cheap units out there (I've heard good things about the Yongnuo RF602 for example) but I personally haven't found and used any.

    I agree though that the upfront cost of the brand name units is very high and it puts me off. My solution is to look for deals on used ones on ebay or craigslist. So far I've had good luck with that approach, getting 20-30% off (or more) compared to the brand new price. I will be doing a post about ebay tactics soon.

    Best regards,

  51. FYI
    Got the Polaroid version
    Polaroid Tri-Mode Wireless Camera & Flash Remote
    Here is what it states
    "True Hot Shoe Sync Allows For Full Off Camera Control Of Flash Unit Without Loss Of TTL Functions So Its Ideal For lIght Stands, Flash Brackets ETC"

    Don't waste your time, it's not true. These are going back. Regular old manual triggers. They work, but to TTL functions.

  52. Sadly I can't say I'm too surprised. Thanks for alerting the community to this.

    Best regards,

  53. I bought a set of these triggers but the range isnt great maybe 2 feet if that and wont work through an umbrella is there a trick to these i contacted the seller waiting on a reply i tried different channels and normal batteries and eneloops

  54. Hi Anri, I got these triggers few days ago and are experiencing your exact issue(s) for my Nikon D300S. However, your work-around did not resolve the issue as I've tried moving the Trigger on my hotshoe different position (depth). I ordered 2 Nikon and 1 Canon and all 3 Triggers exhibit the exact same problem on my Nikon D300s, all 3 works great on my Canon. One of the Receiver was DOA, wouldn't fire on any of my flashes (strobe and Canon flashes). I hate to buy Pocket Wizard III (139$ a pop + tax + shipping/handling ) but If the manufacture (linkdelight) don't come up with a solution, I might have to shell out the cash for popping my flashes wirelessly.

    Any one else experienced such problem regardless of the make of your camera and found other work-around?




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