Sunday, August 1, 2010

YongNuo YN-560 flash - update


I did a few more tests to follow up on my initial impressions.

1. Optical slave: Infrared not visible light.

I discovered that the YN-560's optical slave detects infrared light not visible light.  This is useful if we want to avoid any contribution from the triggering flash, by covering it with an infrared filter such as the SG-3IR.


In the image above, I used the popup to trigger the YN-560 but covered the popup with an the SG-3IR, yet the YN-560 triggered successfully.

2. Sync speed:

An interesting discovery is that the YN-560 can sync at 1/3 stop higher than the natural sync speed, whether on-camera or on either optical sync mode, with only a very slight reduction in power.

Baseline shot at normal sync speed: ISO 200, f/32, 1/250, YN-560 at full power, on-camera:

Test shot: same as above at 1/320, YN-560 on-camera:

Test shot: ISO 200, f/32, 1/320, YN-560 on S1 mode, popup flash at Manual mode 1/128 with SG-3IR infrared filter:

Test shot: ISO 200, f/32, 1/320, YN-560 on S2 mode, popup flash at TTL mode -3 FEC with SG-3IR infrared filter:

Note: in the latter two shots, the white balance is correct because the camera is aware that flash is being used, and Nikon's CLS corrects white balance for flash use.  In the first two shots, the camera acted as though it was not aware that a flash was fired, therefore there was no white balance correction.

Another interesting discovery is that when the YN-560 is on-camera, the camera does not limit the shutter speed to 1/250.  This allows trick shots like the one above.

In the shot above, I used the YN-560 on-camera to trigger the SB-800 on SU-4 (optical slave) mode. The flash appears invisible on the SB-800's flash head although it lights up my face, because the flash is blocked by the rear curtain but its light on my face is not.  The flash unit itself is not obscured by the rear curtain however because it is illuminated by the ambient light from the sun.
 
3. Flash duration:
The published specifications for the YN-560 state that at full power, the flash duration is 1/200.  That is incredibly slow for a hotshoe flash (the SB-800 claims a flash duration of 1/800 at full power).  If the 1/200 flash duration is true, then at a sync speed of 1/250, you wouldn't get full power - instead you would get 1/3 of a stop less power (i.e., around 16.67% less power).

To test flash duration, I used a point and shoot camera, the Casio Exilim EX-V7 (which has no mechanical shutter and can theoretically sync at any speed), and compared the output of the YN-560 at speeds from 1/125 to 1/800 (the highest shutter speed on my point and shoot). My point and shoot only has TTL flash, therefore I used the YN-560's digital optical slave (which ignores preflashes).  I set the Casio's flash to -2 FEC and covered it with an SG-3IR.

a. Baseline shot (showing ambient "deleted")  ISO 64, f/10.6, 1/125.

b. YN-560 @ full power, ISO 64, f/10.6, 1/125:

c. same as above, at 1/200:

d. same as above at 1/640:

e. same as above, at 1/800:

Conclusion: the fastest shutter speed where there is no noticeable decrease in flash exposure at full power is 1/640.  At 1/800 there is a very slight reduction in flash exposure, presumably from clipping of flash duration.  Speeds higher than 1/800 were not tested.

4. Power:

There had been conflicting results regarding the YN-560's power.  Earlier reports found the power to be similar to an SB-600.  However, it appears there is now a consensus that the power is similar to an SB-800:
  • Following a test of a production model, Speedlights.net found the power to be the same as a YN-460 II, which is greater than an SB-600 and almost identical to an SB-900, with an approximate GN of 33 meters at 35mm zoom and ISO 100.
  • Strobist Flickr group member Kurbster found the YN-560 to yield an aperture of f/32 at a distance of 1 meter at ISO 100, implying a GN of 32 meters. 
These updated results are consistent with my first impressions of the YN-560, where I thought the output was similar to an SB-800.

5. TTL Accuracy with CLS AWL

As previously posted, it is possible to synchronize the output of the YN-560 with a commander flash and a slave flash operating using Nikon's CLS Advanced Wireless Lighting.  One question is whether TTL flash exposure remains accurate when the YN-560 is contributing light.  It would seem that it the answer should obviously be no because the YN-560 doesn't fire during the TTL preflashes, therefore its output is not taken into account in the TTL flash metering.  However, I was hoping that after the TTL preflashes fire, it specifies the flash exposure instead of flash output, and thus it would be possible for the YN-560 to avoid skewing the TTL accuracy.

To test whether TTL accuracy is affected by the YN-560's contribution, I fired an SB-800 on-camera and used it to trigger a YN-560 in a dual flash bracket.  For the baseline shot, I lit a subject with just the SB-800 on TTL mode.  I then did a test shot with the YN-560 contributing light and compared the two exposures for similarity.

Baseline shot: f/11, 1/250, ISO 200, SB-800 on TTL (0 FEC).

Comparison shot: f/11, 1/250, ISO 200, SB-800 on TTL (0 FEC) and YN-560 at 1/16 power.

Evidently, TTL accuracy is affected by the YN-560.

6. Other observations:
- My unit didn't come with a sto-fen type diffuser.  That's ok. I very rarely use them anyway.  Come to think of it, I don't recall ever using one other than for testing purposes because diffusion doesn't soften light.
- I agree with other reviewers that the pilot light (test light) is harder to press than the other buttons but doesn't take THAT much effort.  It's just stiff, that's all.
- The sound button (also functions as the power save button) occasionally doesn't respond.

62 comments:

  1. Like you I don't really aspire to be a PRO Photographer. I just want our family photo's, especially the kids photos to be competent at least.

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  2. I hear you, friend. [That's why I didn't call it Best family photos. :)) ] for folks like us, the yn560 is a pretty good value in my opinion.

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  3. Picked up two of these along with a wireless remote trigger to put onto my D90 and see how it goes.. thanks for posting this info... Two flashes + trigger only put me down about $190. I'm a happy camper...

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  4. Awesome! BTW, I haven't tested the YN560 with a radio trigger but based on what I've read on speedlights.net and others, it should not be a problem.

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  5. Thanbks for doing this.
    I put a review of the YN-560 on my blog with test results also

    http://www.kurbster.com

    Thanks again
    The Kurbster

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  6. Thank you very much Kurbster. I bought the YN-560 primarily because of your light meter tests and your review. I owe you a debt of gratitude.

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  7. hi just a question im a newbie here ..
    i have a d90 i ordered this yn560 can i use this flsh without any radio trigger im confuse now.thanks

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  8. Hi! Yes you can use a D90 with this flash wirelessly even without a radio trigger. I do want to make sure you know that this is a manual flash, not a TTL flash, though. In order to use this flash with a D90, you either use the popup flash in TTL and use the S2 mode of the YN-560, or use the popup flash in manual mode, and use the S1 mode of the YN-560. I suggest getting an SG-3IR infrared panel (around $12) to block the visible light of the popup flash to give you control over whether you want the popup flash to show up in your shot or not.

    The D90 has a commander mode which can also trigger the YN-560 but that would not be a good idea (it is subject to a lot of limitations) unless you also have a CLS-compatible slave (SB-900, SB-800, SB-600) and are using the YN-560 for effects such as lighting the background or rim light - that sort of thing.

    I hope that helps. Feel free to email or post any follow-up questions.

    Best regards,
    Mic

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  9. Hola, que tal funciona este flash en una nikon d5000

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  10. Hola Raul. Este flash puede funcionar en un D5000 pero sólo en el manual.

    Hello, How does this flash on a Nikon D5000

    This flash can function on a d5000 but only in manual. No TTL.

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  11. what is TTL and can put on D3000? is it hard if it is in manual?

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  12. Hello! TTL means the camera controls the flash output automatically. Manual means you control the flash output. Please see the TTL Flash FAQ on the top right corner of this blog.

    The YN560 flash can work on a D3000 but only in manual -- no TTL.

    Manual flash is simpler but slower. TTL Flash is faster but is less predictable.

    Good luck!

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  13. Thank you man your review has help me a lot using the Yn-560 on my D90! Cheerzzz...

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  14. You've tested until 1/800 shutter speed to capture the flash from the YN560 right?.

    Is it possible to hit say 1/2000, 1/4000 or maybe even 1/8000?. Will the shutter be too fast for the flash?

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  15. Hi Eric. Yes I've also tested the YN560 at 1/8000 with a D70 and it works. Check out the post on "Nikon D70 sync speed tests." However I have not tested the "real" flash durations. (I'm almost sure that at 1/8000 you won't see full power for example.)

    Best regards,
    Mic

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  16. Hi,
    My YN560 mentions this in the manual
    Flash duration: 1/200s - 1/20000s;

    but how do I set the flash duration? I cannot figure out how to do it.
    for ex, when I shoot at shutter speeds higher than 200, I often end up getting half my picture black.

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  17. Hi! Flash duration for the yn560 is proportional to the power level, with full power having the longest flash duration and 1/128 having the shortest. This is true for other hotshot flashes as well.

    Best regards,
    Mic

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  18. Thanks for the reply mic. but I was wondering if its not possible to shoot at 1/1000 but at a low power? But I am sure, that on CANON and nikon flashes the sync speed can be set. but couldnt find on YN560.

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  19. Hi Roy. Sorry I misunderstood you the first time. The short answer is that even if you use 1/128 power, you will still get that black bar above your sync - with any flash, not just with the YN560.

    The issue is with your camera body not the flash. Your camera has a mechanical shutter just like most DSLRs. Above your camera's sync speed, the sensor is never fully exposed at any given time. So even at the fastest flash duration, there will still be a black bar.

    Ways around this: high speed sync (not available on the YN560), an electronic shutter (like on a point and shoot), or a hybrid shutter (as in the Nikon D70 -- see the post on this subject). With the D70, I have sync'd at 1/8000 with the YN560.

    Hope this helps!

    Best regards,
    Mic

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  20. Thanks for the info Mic. hmm.. thats bad. I have big fat flash, but I can only shoot to a max of 1/200 shutter speed. That defies the whole point of having a flash.

    I have a Nikon D80 with shutter speed 30 to 1/4000 sec and a flash that claims 1/200s - 1/20000 sec. And I cannot shoot above 1/200 without getting a black band. Something very odd about that.

    Sorry to ask too many Qs. I assume you have a lot of experience with this sort of camera-flash stuff.

    Thanks anyway,
    Roy

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  21. Hi Roy. Yeah for some purposes high speed sync is the way to go. Speaking of which what do you need the high shutter speed for? If you want a shallow dof in bright ambient you can use an nd filter. For freezing action you can shoot in dark conditions then use the flash to freeze action. It really depends.

    Best regards,
    Mic

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  22. I am trying to do some water sculptures. I started of with photographing drops and splashes. 1/200-1/250 shutter speed usually works with water drops, but a little bit more action and I start to get blurs.
    Maybe you are right about fully dark. I have a lot of ambient light in the background. But I shoot in manual mode anyway, so I am not sure if it really matters.
    I guess i will try that.
    Cheers,
    Roy

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  23. Hi Roy. Try underexposing ambient by at least 3 stops then set flash power for a correct exposure. Even if you shoot at a longer shutter speed such as 1/200 the flash duration will freeze the water. Even at full power that's effectively 1/800 or faster.

    Best regards,
    Mic

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  24. Hi Mic,

    I have a D90 and have using the pop-up flash in commander mode to trigger an SB-600 using TTL. I was thinking about picking up a YN-560 for fill or effects, and either using S2 mode or RF-602 triggers.

    Your tests indicate that adding a YN-560 to my setup would mess up TTL. Couldn't I just dial down flash exposure to compensate for the YN-560?

    Thanks,
    Willy

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  25. Hi Willy. Yup you can dial down fec to compensate for any flash overexposure. Btw if you havent seen it yet pls see the post on how to sync the yn560 with cls: http://betterfamilyphotos.blogspot.com/2010/07/how-to-sync-yn-560-with-nikon-cls.html
    To be honest though I have tried that as well as a popup + sb800 + sb600 combo and would pay the extra $ to get the latter even though im frugal. It's way more usable.

    Best regards,
    Mic

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  26. Could you elaborate on the "way more usable" part? I read your post about syncing with CLS, and the range of settings where it works, and they seem acceptable to me. Is it the hassle of having to compensate for a manual flash outside of TTL? Reading some of the flickr posts and the spreadsheet you posted, I should be able to sync at 1/200 with my D90.

    A used SB-800 or SB-900 is around $300-$400 whereas a new YN-560 is $70. That's a big difference to me :-)

    Thanks,
    Willy

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  27. Hi Willy. First a caveat: the d90 + sb600 data in the spreadsheet was provided by a reader. I cant guarantee it's accurate.

    As for the usefulness of a 2nd cls-capable flash, I will post about it soon but just briefly, remote adjustment makes things a lot easier but more importantly for me i gain the ability to coordinate the flash exposure between the two flashes. So for example it's easy to use one as key and the oher as fill. If coordinating exposure is not critical, then a yn560 could make do. For example, using it as a rim light or background light.

    As for the cost yes a cls flash is far more expensive. There are still a few sb600s available. There are also 3rd party cls flashes such as nissin di622 (but i havent tried them). Btw you might want to check this post: http://betterfamilyphotos.blogspot.com/2011/02/second-search-for-second-flash.html

    Best regards,
    Mic

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  28. Mic, just to make sure - if I understood you correctly this light can be controlled via wireless CLS from the body menu (I got D700). Can I control power in M mode from the body? In other worlds can I set 1/2, 1/4, etc up to 1/128 from the camera in wireless mode with YN 560??

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  29. Hi Wlodzimierz. No it is not possible to adjust the yn560 remotely using CLS. It is only possible to trigger the YN560 with CLS under some conditions but you will still have to walk to the flash and adjust it by setting the power from the back of the flash.

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  30. OK. What is the fastest possible shutter when pop up flash is -- (just control) and YN560 is in group A in manual mode M to I can control output power? I don't get completely this point about 1/60 in M mode.

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  31. Hi Wlodzimierz. If all the other flashes are in pure manual optical slave mode (not CLS) the fastest sync is 1/250 in s1 mode (you might even get 1/320). You can get this speed by setting the popup to manual (not commander) and all other flashes on su-4 mode.

    If however you want to mix wireless CLS control of CLS flashes while triggering the YN560 then the YN560 will be subject to limits because its optical sync gets confused and it wasn't designed for CLS. It will still work but you have to use certain settings http://betterfamilyphotos.blogspot.com/2010/07/how-to-sync-yn-560-with-nikon-cls.html

    If you look at the spreadsheet what it tells you is that if the popup is on commander mode but on Manual flash exposure (not TTL), while the CLS flash is on CLS remote mode as a manual flash (for remote adjustment of the CLS flash) then the fastest optical sync speed of the YN560 is 1/60.

    Pls feel free to email me if this is not clear.

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  32. I am using a D700 body, I can make the YN560 fire using S2 but then my picture is underexposed even at full power, seems like I wasnt able to capture the flash. What would be the right setting on my D700

    Current setting
    Camera on Commander mode
    Built in flash Manual mode 1/1 or TTL mode
    Group A Manual mode 1/1
    Group B Manual mode 1/1
    CHannel 3

    YN560 setting
    Manual mode

    FLASH doesnt FIRE
    ************************

    Current setting
    Camera on Commander mode or TTL mode
    Built in flash Manual mode 1/1
    Group A Manual mode 1/1
    Group B Manual mode 1/1
    CHannel 3

    YN560 setting
    S2 mode

    FLASH doesnt FIRE
    ******************************

    Current setting
    Camera on Commander mode
    Built in flash Manual mode 1/1
    Group A Manual mode 1/1
    Group B Manual mode 1/1
    CHannel 3

    YN560 setting
    S1 mode

    FLASH FIRE's
    No effect on exposure
    ******************

    Current setting
    Camera on Commander mode
    Built in flash INACTIVE
    Group A Manual mode 1/1
    Group B Manual mode 1/1
    CHannel 3

    YN560 setting
    S2 mode

    FLASH FIRE's
    VERY UNDEREXPOSED

    ReplyDelete
  33. Hi! Pls. see this page:
    http://betterfamilyphotos.blogspot.com/2010/07/how-to-sync-yn-560-with-nikon-cls.html

    1. Your first combination won't work because the YN560 is on manual mode, which means the optical slave is not active.

    2. In your second combination, there are a number of possible reasons why the YN560 doesn't fire. Mainly because the YN560 is not designed to work with CLS commander mode. Nonetheless, there are combinations that will work with CLS commander, see the link above. One variable I also don't know is whether you do have other CLS flashes firing, and how many of them there are. If not, set the other groups to inactive.

    3. The 3rd combo result is because S1 fires on the first flash it sees. It was triggered by the *pre-flashes* of the CLS commander, that's why it fired but it was not in sync with the shot. S1 will work only if all the other flashes (including popup) are on pure manual -- not commander mode manual.

    4. See #2.

    I hope this helps. If not, pls. feel free to email me at info at betterfamilyphotos.com. I need to know what your other flashes are so I can make suggestions.

    Best regards,
    Mic

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  34. I didnt use any other flash. Just wanted to fire YN560 solo off cam.
    When you say "S1 will work only if all the other flashes (including popup) are on pure manual -- not commander mode manual. " do you mean using RF triggers?

    ReplyDelete
  35. Oh in that case, you're in luck because that's the easiest scenario to trigger the YN560, and it's quite reliable. First off, forget CLS commander mode. That just creates limits to the YN560's optical triggering. Instead, you have three options:

    1. If you plan to use the popup on TTL, then set the popup on TTL (not commander) and switch the YN560 to S2. The YN560 should be able to sync to 1/250 if not 1/320.

    2. If you plan to use the popup on manual, then set the popup on manual (not commander) at your desired power level for the popup, and switch the YN560 to S1. The YN560 should be able to sync to 1/320.

    3. If you don't want to use the popup flash, then do #2, but cover the popup with an SG-3IR. The YN560 will be triggered while the popup flash won't show up.

    RF triggers are also an option. The YN560 will sync to 1/200 with ebay triggers. You may get higher sync speeds with better triggers such as Paul C. Buff Cybersyncs.

    Best regards,
    Mic

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  36. EUREKA,, finally after searching the net the a working instruction is here,,,, gigantic thanks to you man,,, now need to order one more unit . Again 1 2 3 instructions made my YN560 work.

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  37. Many thanks,, now I am able to pop my YN560 with my D700. Great advice.

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  38. quick question for you, now if we factor in wireless triggers (cowboystudio type), does this change anything in terms of sync? i would assume setup would be all manual correct?

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  39. Yup, that's right. 2 ways to do it:

    1. Use the YN-560 in M mode (no optical sync) and attach a radio receiver to the YN-560 and other flashes you're using.

    or

    2. If you don't have enough radio receivers, use the YN-560 in S1 mode while other flashes have a radio receiver.

    Best regards,
    Mic

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  40. Mic, have you figured out any way to sync. the flash in S2 via CLS in M camera mode faster than 1/60 (1/160 at least) or you aleready know this is absolutely not possible?
    Best Regards,
    Wlodek

    ReplyDelete
  41. Hi Wlodek. I dont have a YN560 anymore so I can no longer test for exceptions. A reader said he was able to sync at 1/200 with a d80 and sb600 as cls slave but I cant confirm that.

    Meanwhile if you can live without remote adjustment you can sync all the way to 1/250 (or even 1/8000 with a d70) by using pure manual flash and s1.

    Other than that you can also use a radiopopper jrx studio to have remote adjustment capability in manual mode.

    Best regards,
    Mic

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  42. Hi Mic. I was looking for an alternative (different from Canon speedlite series) external flash with High Speed Sync and I found your blog. So helpful, I thought YN560 had HSS but you answered it. I'm new in this flash stuff, but I'd like to get a flash for Night skateboarding photography. That's why I'm looking for a flash with HSS for my Canon T3i. I'd really appreciate any advice from you. Thanks.

    ReplyDelete
  43. Hi edisk8! Welcome to our blog!

    If you want on-camera HSS I believe the Nissin di866 can do that. However if you want *wireless* HSS I'm not aware of any 3rd party flash that can do that.

    There may be other alternatives but I need more info such as whether you need to shoot faster than 1/1000. Pls email me at info AT betterfamilyphotos DOT com.

    Best regards,
    Mic

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  44. Correction: according to speedlights.net the metz 50 af-1 has wireless HSS. Check out their review!

    The metz 58 af-2 may have wireless hss as well.

    Best regards,
    Mic

    ReplyDelete
  45. Hi Mic
    Thanks for your quick reply.It's nice to find people like you who share your knowledge and expirience with newbies like me. Basically I'd like to shoot night skateboarding using shutter speed between 1/300 and 1/500,or so, just to freeze action. I'll take a look at your suggestions and just in case, I'll bother you again. Man, thanks again.

    ReplyDelete
  46. Hi edisk8. If you don't need to shoot faster than 1/500 and you're shooting at night then I have good news for you: you probably don't need HSS. Instead, use the flash duration to freeze the action. Most speedlights are around 1/800 at full power and have a faster flash duration at lower power levels. Even if your shutter speed is slower like 1/60, the flash pop will freeze the action. Just make sure that your exposure is at least 2 stops below ambient.

    Best regards,
    Mic

    ReplyDelete
  47. My camera is a Sony NEX 5. My stupid question is: Since it a slave flash, that means that when the flash in my camera flashes, automatically the slave lights, even when it is at more than 3 or 4 meters from the camera, Is it correct? Pls somebody to answer. I dont need nothing special for make it function, no cables, no infrared signal... only the light of the flash in my camera. ¿ok?

    ReplyDelete
  48. Hi Adolfo. Yes your camera can trigger the yn560. Much more than 3 or 4 meters. Just use the s2 mode of the yn560.

    But here is a possible problem: the flash from the Yn560 plus the flash from the sony may be too bright. I understand the nex5 has flash exposure compensation so just dial it down if necessary.

    Best regards,
    Mic

    ReplyDelete
  49. Help... I purchased the Yn560-II as an alternative to the built in flash on my D80 - I would like the flexibility to bounce and diffuse the light, in particular when photography babies. Clearly there is a set up that I not clear to me. The camara is set on TLS and I have tired the flash set to S1 and S2. The built in fill flash pops up partially (stuck under the speedlite) and then neither go off.. I apologize for my complete naivete on this - can you help? MQ

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi MQ. The YN560II is a manual flash. If you want to use it with your D80, then use your popup flash on manual mode and set the YN560II to S1. Alternatively, you can set your popup flash on TTL and then set the YN560II to S2. In either case, the popup flash will fire, then the 560II will be triggered optically. If you don't want the popup flash to contribute to the exposure, then get a SG-3IR or Aokatec's clone of the SG-3IR. I hope this helps.

      Best regards,
      Mic

      Delete
    2. ok - about to expose more ignorance.. When you say the YN560II is a manual flash - what exactly does that imply? Does the camera need to be set on a completely manual exposure? The popup flash does not fire when the speedlight is in place - it pops up partially - and the camera assumes there is no flash at all - in other words long shutter speed.

      clearly over my head (but trainable!) - I appreciate your time and am open to reading any reference/training documents that you can suggest. MQ

      Delete
    3. Hi MQ. There are two main types of flash: manual and TTL (auto is a third, but is not used often these days). See here: http://betterfamilyphotos.blogspot.com/2009/08/ttl-flash-faq.html

      The camera doesn't need to be set on a completely manual exposure, but that could be desirable.

      I think the popup flash comes up partially because your camera doesn't recognize the YN560II and is acting as if there is no flash. You need to remove the YN560II from the hotshoe and trigger it optically, using the alternatives I suggested in my previous message. As for the long shutter speed that is not necessarily a bad thing - but better to set it yourself to your desired ambient/flash balance. Those are topics discussed in the following resources:

      To learn manual flash, the best resource is strobist.com's Lighting 101. To learn TTL flash, I humbly suggest our TTL flash tutorial (totally free, no strings attached): http://betterfamilyphotos.blogspot.com/2010/06/ttl-flash-tutorial-in-10-lessons-part-1.html

      Best regards,
      Mic

      Delete
    4. Thanks! I will do my homework. I am disappointed that the YN560II is not recognized from the hotshoe, my understanding was that it was compatible. MQ

      Delete
    5. The YN560II is compatible in the sense that your hotshoe will trigger it. But it's only a manual flash so it doesn't do TTL. One thing you could do so that your popup flash doesn't popup is to use P, A, S or M instead of the green auto mode or scene mode.

      Best regards,
      Mic

      Delete
  50. After trying different setups on my YN560II I realized it works fine in S1 and S2 modes, no matter the mode you use in your camera, it just need the popup flash be triggered. But there's a detail which is not included in the YN560II manual, if you want to use it as a master flash you shouldn't use display view on your camera (in my case I have a Canon). So in my case I just omit the display view and the flash works properly as a master.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Awesome! Thank you very much for sharing.

      Best regards,
      Mic

      Delete
  51. why my new 560 iii did not start on i press 25s in on/of he start in green pilot why he stuck in green and he dont change to red pls help ???

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi. Did you try using new batteries? If the battery is low that is one reason it doesn't go to "ready" (red). If you're using new batteries I suggest you talk to the seller.

      Best regards,
      Mic

      Delete
    2. You're welcome. I hope your 560III issue is fixed or the seller sent you a replacement.

      Best regards,
      Mic

      Delete
    3. thanks ...seller sent you me a replacement.

      Delete

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