Showing posts with label hss. Show all posts
Showing posts with label hss. Show all posts

Friday, July 30, 2010

Nikon CLS Advanced Wireless Lighting Tip: Wireless High Speed Sync (Basic)


(f/2.8, 1/1000, ISO 100, Nikon D80, Tamron 28-75 f/2.8)


One of the strengths of Nikon's system is its advanced wireless lighting (AWL) which allows a commander-capable flash to remotely control and adjust compatible slave flashes.  Other systems have remote flash capability as well to varying degrees.  However, not all flash systems can do wireless high speed sync (HSS) but Nikon's AWL can.

A lot of people (myself included) use the popup flash as a commander, with an external flash such as an SB-600, SB-800, or SB-900 as a slave.  By default, the commander mode menu is set to allow the popup flash to contribute to the exposure (specifically, the default for the popup flash is TTL with 0 FEC).  The problem is that the popup flash does not have high speed sync.  What happens then is that when the popup flash is set to contribute to the exposure, the shutter speed is limited to the sync speed (e.g. 1/250).

In order to use wireless HSS, use the commander menu to deactivate the popup flash (set it to "--"), meaning it will only be used as a commander and will not contribute to the exposure.  If you want to use the commander to contribute to the exposure (e.g., as fill), then use an HSS-capable commander flash (SB-800 or SB-900).

Wednesday, July 21, 2010

Why is sync speed optimal for flash efficiency? (Basic)

When using flash, shooting at the sync speed ensures that you're using your flash most efficiently. Here's why.

Aperture affects both ambient and flash exposure. The larger the aperture, the more light enters the sensor (from both flash and ambient). The most output from your flash will result from the widest aperture. The catch though is that a wider aperture will also increase the ambient exposure, possibly to the point of overexposure.

Enter shutter speed. Shutter speed affects ambient but not flash exposure (up to a limit, as discussed below). The duration of a burst of flash is so brief that whether the shutter travels quickly or slowly, all of the flash burst reaches the sensor. That is, of course, assuming the entire sensor is exposed.

Indeed, the entire sensor is fully exposed at typical shutter speeds. At a high shutter speed, however, the rear curtain starts to close even before the front curtain has traveled completely, therefore the sensor is never fully exposed at any given time. When the flash is fired at these very high speeds, the part that is covered by the rear curtain will not be exposed to flash, leading to uneven exposure which is visible as a dark bar across the bottom or top of the image. The highest shutter speed where the entire sensor is fully exposed is the camera's sync speed. Typical sync speeds are 1/200 or 1/250, but sometimes as slow as 1/125 and as high as 1/500. (Trivia: medium format cameras with leaf shutter lenses can sync at all speeds, and point-and-shoots can sync at any speed because they don't have mechanical shutters :-D ) By default, cameras usually prevent the use of shutter speeds faster than the sync speed when the flash is being used.

Going back to the discussion, higher shutter speeds will nonetheless reduce ambient exposure. We use this to our advantage using the reciprocal relationship between shutter speed and aperture for any given exposure. Let's say it's a bright, sunny day, and the correct exposure is f/16 at 1/125 at 100 ISO. Under the reciprocity principle, you can get the same exposure with any of these combinations:

f/11 at 1/250 at 100 ISO
f/16 at 1/125 at 100 ISO
f/22 at 1/60 at 100 ISO

Of the three combinations above, the one that will require the least power from the flash is the one with the widest aperture, i.e., f/11 at 1/250 at 100 ISO.

Does that mean we should just use aperture priority and always choose the widest aperture to get the most from our flash? Not necessarily. If conditions are bright and aperture is wide, then the shutter speed can be pretty high -- higher than the sync speed. In the example above, suppose we had a lens that can go as wide as f/2.8. If we change aperture to f/2.8, the shutter speed for the same exposure would be 1/4000, which is way faster than the sync speed.

What about high speed sync mode? External flashes can fire at shutter speeds higher than the natural sync speed at the expense of output by firing many small flash bursts (instead of a single flash burst) while the rear curtain travels across the sensor. With HSS, however, the flash loses slightly more than 2 stops of output. In other words, it becomes more than 4x weaker. In other words, its range drops to slightly less than half. You get the idea.

In summary, if you want to maximize your flash while minimizing your ambient, shoot at the sync speed.